Sears Kenmore Washing Machine Repair

My Sears Kenmore top loading washing machine has required several major repairs since we bought it new in 1998. Right inside the lid is a toll free telephone number to call if the machine needs service. This sounds very convenient, but there are several problems.

One problem is the cost to get a technician to come to your house, the hourly labor charge, and the cost of parts, which is significantly more than you can buy them for online.

The other problem, even if you wanted to pay outrageous labor and inflated parts, is it could involve waiting two weeks for a service appointment, and who wants to go to a laundromat for two weeks?

The washing machine shown in these pictures is a Sears Kenmore 90 Series. The model number is 110.26912691.

Click on any of the images for a larger view.

The classic Sears Kenmore top loading washer on the right, with matching Kenmore front loading dryer on left. It has had its share of problems too, but that deserves its own web page. The most common problem with the washer is it fills and drains and sounds like its washing, but the agitator does not agitate, and the tub does not spin. When you open the washer at the end of the cycle, your clothes are soaking wet. The usual cause is a broken direct drive motor coupling. Black rubber dust under the machine is a sure sign that the motor coupling is the culprit. According to a Sears technician, the motor coupling is designed to fail to protect the motor or the transmission from catastrophic damage in the event that either one fails. Instead, the $3 coupling breaks, preventing more expensive damage to your precious washing machine.

As is so often the case, figuring out how to take the appliance apart is half the battle. There are two pieces of plastic trim, one on each side of the control panel. With your fingers, press down on the top to disengage the clip (don't use a tool or you may break it). Tilt the trim back towards you. This exposes a Phillips head screw (one on each side) which holds the control panel to the cabinet. Remove the trim and put it someplace safe where you won't step on it or lose it.

Left side trim removed. Both pieces of trim removed. Time to remove the screws.

The screws have been removed and the control panel has been tilted back. Next the sheet metal cabinet is tilted forward, exposing the tub, and below the tub, the pump. The motor is behind the pump. Remove the cabinet and set it down in a safe place out of the way. After the cabinet is removed we can detach the pump (white, left, foreground) from the motor, center.

Next, the motor has been removed and now we can see the broken drive coupling. This is the part you need. I order several at a time so that I always have one on hand. You never know when the part will fail, but it will never be at a good time.

The new part consists of two hard plastic gears, one of which goes on the motor shaft and the other on the transmission, with a thick black rubber washer between them. Here is a picture of the old and new drive couplings. Can you tell which is which? Hint: The teeth have been broken off of the old part. You can clearly see how the rubber has been stretched and distended.

Here I have installed the new drive coupling on the transmission (center) and the motor (right) and am about to fit the black rubber part of the coupling on to the transmission. Mounting the motor is a little tricky because you have to get the holes to line up. It's not difficult but may take a couple of attempts. Once the motor is on, the rest is easy. Reattach the pump and then... You are ready to wash!

I am happy to provide this information for free, so please don't feel obligated, but if I've helped save you time, money, and aggravation and you'd like to buy me a virtual beer to say thanks, I really do appreciate it. Cheers!

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The classic Sears Kenmore top loading washer on the right, with matching Kenmore front loading dryer on left. It has had its share of problems too, but that deserves its own web page. The most common problem with the washer is it fills and drains and sounds like its washing, but the agitator does not agitate, and the tub does not spin. When you open the washer at the end of the cycle, your clothes are soaking wet. The usual cause is a broken direct drive motor coupling.	Black rubber dust under the machine is a sure sign that the motor coupling is the culprit. According to a Sears technician, the motor coupling is designed to fail to protect the motor or the transmission from catastrophic damage in the event that either one fails. Instead, the $3 coupling breaks, preventing more expensive damage to your precious washing machine.

As is so often the case, figuring out how to take the appliance apart is half the battle. There are two pieces of plastic trim, one on each side of the control panel. With your fingers, press down on the top to disengage the clip (don't use a tool or you may break it).	Tilt the trim back towards you. This exposes a Phillips head screw (one on each side) which holds the control panel to the cabinet. Remove the trim and put it someplace safe where you won't step on it or lose it.

Left side trim removed.	Both pieces of trim removed. Time to remove the screws.

The screws have been removed and the control panel has been tilted back. Next the sheet metal cabinet is tilted forward, exposing the tub, and below the tub, the pump. The motor is behind the pump. Remove the cabinet and set it down in a safe place out of the way.	After the cabinet is removed we can detach the pump (white, left, foreground) from the motor, center.

Next, the motor has been removed and now we can see the broken drive coupling.	This is the part you need. I order several at a time so that I always have one on hand. You never know when the part will fail, but it will never be at a good time.

The new part consists of two hard plastic gears, one of which goes on the motor shaft and the other on the transmission, with a thick black rubber washer between them.	Here is a picture of the old and new drive couplings. Can you tell which is which? Hint: The teeth have been broken off of the old part. You can clearly see how the rubber has been stretched and distended.

Here I have installed the new drive coupling on the transmission (center) and the motor (right) and am about to fit the black rubber part of the coupling on to the transmission. Mounting the motor is a little tricky because you have to get the holes to line up. It's not difficult but may take a couple of attempts. Once the motor is on, the rest is easy. Reattach the pump and then...	You are ready to wash!